GETTING THINGS DONE-US AND SICILY, 2005

Most Americans are familiar with the phrase, “Hurry up and wait!” The US army is famous for that very issue, getting men and supplies where they are supposed to be only to have them cool their heels once they get there. But in Italian, the phrase, “Hurry up!” is not even used very often. In fact, it is almost unknown as a response to a situation which in the states might be perceived as a crisis. Whatever the US shortcomings, they do have a reputation for immediate action. An Italian neighbor joked with me that the Italians still expect the Americans to make it all right in the end, just as Americans have done for Italy all along. Our Italian guide at Selinunte said the same thing as she explained that the restoration of the temple there had been paid for by the Americans after World War 2. Americans have a reputation for getting things done, and in a hurry.
I say all of this because we are having to learn the hard way how to deal with the Italian way of doing things. “Pacienza” is a sympathetic word that people will tell you when you complain about things being mired in bureaucratic red tape. “Pian piano” is another phrase they use, “little by little,” which reminds me of a phrase my mother used to throw at us when we were little. “You think it’s all fun?” she would shout. Anything to show you that the world is not just against you, it’s everybody’s lot to have the fates fly in your face, and that things will be OK if you just wait awhile patiently. Which sure does not get things done!
Americans our age get used to a lifetime of solving problems by taking action. If a situation is not right, then there must be someone somewhere that can make it better. You can make a call, a visit, write a letter or email. You can write to your congressman. Contact the consumer protection agencies that abound. Find out what can and should be done, for yourself as well as for others in your situation, even resorting to a class action suit in courts if the grievance cannot be resolved any other way.
But here, well, there is just so little that one can do to address a grievance. Maybe because of all the small businessmen in all the little niches of society, “Consumerism,” that is, the rights a person is entitled to by being the consumer of a product, is not a popular idea here. People are afraid to rat on each other-they prefer to suffer and vent by gossip and grousing among friends and colleagues rather than file official complaints. The code of “Omerta” is still alive and kicking.
Government does not seem to be very receptive either. Why? Because the job of government is to STAY in government, while doing as little as possible. Really. Because the more they “rock the boat,” the more people’s feet they step on. I think I am used to the idea now, but I cannot see how people can believe any campaign slogans, for they are all bald faced lies to me. Change in Sicily just does not happen easily, and the protests against any kind of change are always evident, from small gatherings of students or workers to huge rallies and strikes that stop everyday life. If some one person or group has a stake in the change that they perceive to be negative, they will drag their heels in the ground and stop whatever phase of operations they are involved in. And THAT is the extent of consumer action here.

We are still without a valid driver’s licence here and will be for at least another month. Why? Because the nameless, faceless individual in Agrigento that schedules driver’s tests has scheduled Steve’s oral test for June 15 in Agrigento. He has been ready for weeks now and legally he could have taken the test any day after a month and a day of driver’s school. And because I have the same licenses that Steve had, a valid International driver’s license from AAA, and a valid NY state driver’s license, I can’t drive legally either. And so two cars sit out in the parking lot.
So because of the whims of someone, somewhere, we are like prisoners here. We do not have home mail delivery (you all remember THAT story!), we are far from any grocery stores, we cannot even walk to a restaurant. I am sad to think of all that we have missed. The small mountain towns and corners of cities we could have discovered. The museums and wine cantinas that have had open houses. The change of seasons in the countryside. The concerts, theatre, movies we could have gone to. And the pizzerias and restaurants that we could have visited instead of me cooking so many meals. I don’t mind any of that so much, but I do think that it is supreme stupidity to prevent residents, even guest residents like us, from spending money in their country
And the big frana (earth collapse) on the road leading to our beach that I wrote about earlier this year? Word has it that work on repairing that (again!) will start next week. But it has gotten larger and more dangerous than ever before in its three year history. It was repaired a few other times and the repairs “didn’t take.” We shall see if all the aspects of Sicilian government bureaucracy has been done correctly and the correct papers filed and stamps affixed and signatures signed.
And the big bridge between Menfi and Sciacca, damaged by the earthquake that occurred the week after we moved here in September 2002? Word has it that that will be completed and the road opened at the end of May, despite Mafia interference (their guys did NOT get the contract for the work) and bad weather delays. Again, we shall see. After all, commuters only go an extra 20-30 kilometers each day because of the detour. The scary thing is how many people have died from road accidents using the twisty turny back road detours at high speed. But apparently, nothing can speed up the process of Sicilian workers doing their jobs. At least WE are safe, here without a valid driver’s license.